Recommended Species
Pandinus imperator: The Imperial Scorpion/Emperor Scorpion. One of the biggest species of scorpion and probably the best for a novice. These scorpions can grow to some 15cm in length. They are black in colour although they do appear to have a green tinge in a certain light. They originate from West Africa and should be kept in a warm humid habitat as described above. The sting of Pandinus imperator is frequently described as being like that of a bee. However, it is worth remembering that some people develop serious allergic reactions to bee stings.

Recently other Pandinus species have become available. However, these have not been properly identified and are often more aggressive. They are smaller than Emperor scorpions and are generally labeled as Red Claw Scorpions by traders. Not recommended for novice scorpion owners.

Scorpions belonging to the Genus Heterometrus are often as large as Emperor scorpions and should be kept in much the same way. They originate from forests in Asia and also make good pets, their sting is said to be of similar potency as that of Pandinus. The most commonly available species are Heterometrus spinifer (Thai Black) and Heterometrus javanensis (Javanese Jungle Scorpion).

Species not recommended for the novice
Hadrurus sp: Hairy Scorpions. A large scorpion (10cm) which does well in the desert setup described above and requires no water (getting all it needs from the atmosphere) – they dislike being misted. They are also considerably more aggressive than Emperor Scorpions with a more potent sting.

Scorpions from the Genus Androctonus are relatively large scorpions from Africa and the Middle East. They are extremely dangerous and care should be taken as some of the larger species (particularly A. bicolor) have a passing resemblance to the Emperor Scorpion – make sure you are confident that your dealer knows exactly what they are selling. Androctonus bicolor have more slender pedipalps (commonly called pincers or claws) than Pandinus imperator and a much thicker tail. Note: Narrow pedipalps on a scorpion often indicate a potent sting.

Bark Scorpions (eg Centruroides and Tityus) should also be avoided by those new to keeping scorpions. Bark scorpions can be recognised as they carry their tail curled to the side of the body rather than arching over the top (ie. the traditional image of scorpions).

The most important thing is to have a dry and hygienic set-up so that no bacteria that could be harmful to your scorpion start to build up. Finally, don’t make the water dish so deep that the insects drown themselves. In the wild scorpions eat spiders, lizards and snakes, but in captivity a diet of a couple of crickets a week is enough for most species. Feeding should take place at night since these are nocturnal species.

Housing Your Scorpion
Some scorpions are happy to be kept in groups, whilst others are loners, thus if you want to houses multiple specimens together you must select the species with care. The size of the terrarium will be dictated by the number of scorpions you decide to keep and the species. For example, for the large-clawed Scorpion, or Israeli gold scorpion, a habitat of three feet in lengths is suitable, whereas at the other end of the scale Bothriurus bonariensis can get by in accommodation less that one foot in length.

Specialist exotic pet terrariums are relatively cheap these days so this is your best option for housing. If you decide to adapt an aquarium or plastic box you should ensure that they are escape proof. Since most scorpions like to burrow they are not great escape-artists, but nonetheless you should not give them the opportunity. I have seen them climb glass, and smack quite vociferously at the lid of their housing. Make sure the lid is adequately sealed as finding a lost scorpion can be very challenging.

Since burrowing is a scorpion’s key activity you will want to get the substrate right, and peat, vermiculite, and moss are all suitable materials. The key is to make sure it is deep enough to facilitate burrowing. A shallow water dish should be provided, and you will enjoy observing your scorpion as it uses its pincers to scoop up water as part of the scorpion feeding process.

Some conditions will need to be fine-tuned depending on the species you select. African and Asian scorpions tend to like warm and humid conditions, whereas desert species, such as those from the Androctonus genera require a dry terrarium. A substrate of compost covered with bark chippings is ideal for a humid terrarium, whereas a desert set up should have a substrate of course sand.

You do not need to create artificial light for this nocturnal species, and as long as you maintain a heat of 25 degrees centigrade there is no need for artificial heating. If you do use a heat map to maintain this temperature you must ensure that it covers only a small portion of the set up and doesn’t make things too hot for burrowing. When scorpions get too hot they burrow to cool down, and unwittingly they may burrow onto the heat mat and kill themselves. In order to this you should have a thermometer, and some owners put the heat mat on the side of the terrarium rather than underneath it.

There are over 1,500 species of scorpions (Scorpionida) and only a small selection of them are available as pets. Some of these include: the Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator), Forest Scorpion from Malaysia (Heterometrus spinifer) and the Asian Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus longimanus). There are 50 species of scorpion that have venom that is dangerous to man, and a number of deaths have been recorded. So you certainly wouldn’t want to keep these as pets. It’s highly unlikely that one of these would be for sale in your local pet store, but you should always check.

Fossils indicate that scorpions have been around for over 400 million years, and these creatures are built to withstand the harshest climates, from the Mojave desert to the Southwest Cameroons. The one climate that they don’t do well in is those with extended periods of cold. The habitats of scorpions are Mediterranean, Desert and Rain Forest. You should learn which of these is the natural habitat of your scorpion and then recreate the appropriate temperature and humidity: Mediterranean (70 degrees Fahrenheit, 50-60% humidity), Desert (80-95 degrees Fahrenheit, 0% humidity) and Rain Forest (70-75 degrees Fahrenheit, 70-80% humidity).

The Mediteranean Terrarium
Scorpions like to burrow, and you should have a substrate of at least four inches in depth. Suitable floorings for the substrate include gravel, peat and vermiculite. An alternative is to provide an artificial burrow by stuffing a hollow branch, or pot. When it comes to choosing your plants be prepared for your scorpion to destroy them pretty quickly! Choices can include ivy, and ferns, but it is probably not worth bothering with anything that flowers because the flowers won’t last long in a tank shared with a scorpion. You don’t need any artificial lighting for a Mediterranean set-up, and your room temperature should keep the terrarium at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit – if it gets colder in the winter then you can augment the set up with a heat lamp. If this is the case carefully monitor the temperature. Occasional spraying should be enough to maintain the humidity.

The Desert Terrarium
The desert terrarium’s best substrate option is of course sand. You can just use the sand that your local pet store sells for use with pet birds. Pour the sand to a depth of at least three inches, and above the substrate provide a rock, or burrow for shelter. Remember that scorpions are nocturnal so you need to provide something for them to hide under during the day. For a desert set up you don’t need any artificial lighting, and with humidity of around zero no misting is required.

The Rain Forest Terrarium
Of the three set-ups this is the one that requires the most work to maintain when keeping scorpions. The substrate should be at least four inches of dampened peat or vermiculite, and in addition to this you should create an artificial burrow above the substrate. In order to maintain the required humidity a good idea is to have some moss in the terrarium and spray it daily. In order to maintain the required heating it is recommended that you use heat lamps, as heat maps are not appreciated by scorpions when they burrow. With a heat lamp they can be above ground when they need warmth, and burrow when they want to cool down. No artificial lighting is required.