Ground Skink

The ground skink (Scincella lateralis) is native to North America, and can be found in the eastern woodlands. They can survive on a diet of insects, and grows to a length of just under five inches. They like to hide under branches and leaves so make sure that your set up has some suitable areas of cover. With then dark brown stripes these are not the most colorful lizard, but they are very active and provide hours of entertainment when viewed.

If you would prefer an amphibian then woodland salamanders are a good option. There a number of different species, including:

• Caddo Mountain Salamander (Plethodon caddoensis)
• Valley And Ridge Salamander (P. hoffmani)
• Jordan’s Salamander (P. jordani)
• Ozark Zig Zag Salamander (P. d. angusticlavius)
• Eastern Zig Zag Salamander (P. d. dorsalis)

They thrive in a damp woodland terrarium, and unlike other salamanders they deposit their eggs on land, rather than in the water.

Savanna Terrarium

Galapagos Tortoise

The tortoise is ideally suited to a savanna set-up, and even breeding is manageable as long as you mimic the changing of the seasons, and provide the correct substrate for the tortoise to be able to dig a nest. One thing to be mindful of is the size that your species will grow to. If you are planning to keep them in a terrarium all the time then a tortoise that does not grow beyond ten inches in length is suitable. A lot of tortoises grow bigger than that so do you research. One thing that appeals to a lot of owners is that tortoises are herbivorous.

Many geckos are native to the savanna such as the Moorish wall gecko and the ocelot gecko (Paroedura pictus). Ocelot geckos can be pretty vocal, and many owners enjoy the rodent-like squeaks that they make. They are small (five inches), nocturnal lizards that should be kept in a terrarium with temperatures of between 82 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Desert Terrarium

Eastern Collared Lizard

Most people think of lizards and snakes when it comes to the desert, but some amphibians also make it their home. The common green toad is just one of these, and there are both eastern and western species. They are not the easiest pet to get hold of those so if you are interested then your local exotic pet club is probably the best place to inquire.

When it comes to lizards you have an amazing array to choose from. One interesting species is the collared lizard which has amazing colors, with orange spots. They can move incredibly fast, and even run on two legs. Other reptiles that you can consider for the desert terrarium are great plains skinks, Schneider’s skinks, desert iguanas and spiny-tailed agamids.

Water Terrariums
Frogs and toads are the standard choices, but many owners go for more exotic options such as caecilians, snakes, spiders or beetles. Let’s take a look at some of these more unusual pets.

Fishing spiders, or dolomedes, is a genus of large spiders of the family Pisauridae. They are also known as raft spiders, dock spiders or wharf spiders. To keep them in a terrarium you will need to provide some dry area out of the water, from this vantage point they will feed on any other insects in the tank. Another aquatic spider (in name at least) is the water scorpion, which is in fact an insect and it is very similar in appearance to the Indian stick insect. If you are looking for something even more unusual then look no further than the tentacled snake, which is fully aquatic and will grow to an impressive three feet. The tentacled snake is relatively easy to keep in captivity.


Semi-Aquatic Terrariums
Turtles are the obvious candidate for a semi-aquatic set up since they enjoy basking almost as much as they do swimming. You can choose from a range of mud turtles, Florida red-bellied turtles, Mississippi map turtles, musk turtles, and more. Salamanders, frogs and newts also thrive in this environment. American leopard frogs (Rana Pipiens Complex) are worth considering just because of the curious grunting noises they make!

Make sure that your greenhouse is either on raised concrete blocks, of is built one foot or more into the ground. Ideally it should have a floor of poured concrete. These precautions will ensure that your predators, including those that burrow, are kept at bay.


When you set up a greenhouse, just as you would with a terrarium, you can create a specific theme.  There are a number of different types of terrarium (rainforest, desert, aquatic, semi-aquatic, woodlands and savanna), and with a greenhouse you can select a range of different species to live together as they would in the wild. Of course, you need to check that they are not predators of one another!

As well as selecting the right animals you will need to select the right range of plants. For example, for a tropical greenhouse begonias, anthuriums, and philodendrans will provide a good backdrop to basilisks (Basiliscus) and red-eyed tree frogs. Unfortunately there aren’t many snakes you can safely add to the tropical mix without having your frogs eaten.

Any animals that do well in humid conditions are suited for the greenhouse, such as the great green iguana (Iguana iguana) and the tiger rat snake (Spilotes pullates). This snake can give out some nasty bites though, so it is only recommended for experienced snake handlers. If you do have one you will notice that they are very adept climbers.

Screenhouses are just like greenhouses, but instead of glass walls they have wire mesh. They are suitable for hot climates, and for pets that do not like humidity. Some examples for reptile terrariums are the red-headed basilisk (Basiliscus galeritus) and the frilled lizard (Chlamydosaurus kingii).


A feature of the screen terrarium is the long term plant planning that can be done, with ferns, orchids and bromeliads all thriving in the environment. Even if you have to move your pets during winter months, the plants can continue to be maintained and thrive.

If you do decide to go for the outdoor option then one of the true pleasures can be building your own cage. Beyond plywood, treated lumber, mesh and nails and hinges there is not much more that you need. The best thing to do is look at some existing examples of outdoor cages, create a basic design plan, and set to work.

If you have a pond in your garden, then you already have a suitable home for many amphibians. Depending on your climate you may have to provide some accommodation for hibernating during the winter months. You may find that native snakes, frogs and toads make there way to your pond without having to introduce any wildlife. People often introduce pet turtles such as sliders (Trachemys) and cooters (Psuedemys). There is also one other species that people have been known to keep as pets – the spectacled caiman.

The spectacled caiman is no easy pet, and you should check your local pet licensing laws before considering this option. If you are new to keeping reptiles and frogs this is not the pet for you. Since their natural habitat is areas of river banks and lakes they will need an outdoor pond. The young spectacled caiman is relatively easy to handle and often sold as a baby alligator. But they can grow up to seven feet, and are extremely aggressive. They are named because of the bony ridge between the eyes, which looks like a pair of spectacles, but this is just about the only cute thing about them. For for more information on a lizard terrarium, check out reptile terrariums.


If you are determined to have something exotic for your pond then a better option would be something like the Asian Pond Turtle (Chinemys reevesi). Also known as Reeve’s Turtle, this is a small turtle that doesn’t exceed a shell length of ten inches. They are a basking species, and they have dark heads with yellow stripes running down each side of the crown. You will see a lot of this turtle in your outdoor pond because it is highly aquatic. It can feed on a wide range of things, from dog food to worms and watercress.

The critical thing to get right is preparing clean, chlorine-free water, and preventing the build up of harmful chemicals such as ammonia, and nitrates. Making sure you don’t overstock is the first step to maintaining clean water. After that it comes down to regularly changing small portions of water and effective filtration. It is possible to set up a mini-ecosystem that filters itself, but many hobbyists just go for a mechanical filter.


You should wash the aquarium and everything that will go inside it in clean water to remove all traces of potentially harmful chemicals. All the rocks that will be used as display features must then be held firm with sealant. Once you have put 50% the water in the aquatic portion of the tank you will need to de-chlorinate it if this has not already been done. After planting your choice of plants, and adding the substrate, you can add the remaining water. The heating and filters are the last things to be set up. You should leave the tank for a few days before adding your pets to allow it to stabilize and ensure that it runs at the right temperature.

A multi-pronged approach to water filtration gives you the best chance of keeping the water clean. At the regular partial water changes, the replacement water should be the same temperature as that in the aquarium. Aquatic plants can do a lot to help filtration by providing oxygen. These can be supplemented by nitrate removal solutions that you can purchase at your local pet store. Mechanical filters can be under gravel, or cylinders that attach to the side of the tank. The latter can come as foam cartridge corner filters driven by a vibrator pump.

Unlike the fish enthusiast you are going to have to put thought into the damage that your specimens can cause. We have already mentioned the importance of setting any rocks in place, and you may want to abandon graded gravel since it will soon be flattened out by the movements of your pets. If you choose a submersible aquarium heater it must be a strong one that won’t break, and the top of the aquarium must be very tightly sealed.

Choosing the aquarium plants can become an absorbing hobby in itself, and if you are adventurous you can go out and collect them yourself. Eelgrass (Sagittaria), fanworts (Cabomba), Amazon sword plants (Echinodorous), lace plants (Ctryptocoryne), and hornwort (Ceratophyllum) are just some of the plants that you can select.

The types of pets that you will find yourself enjoying in aquatic environments include dwarf sirens (Pseudobranchus axanthus), African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis), and caecilians. Caecilians are fascinating snake-like creatures than enjoy burrowing in the gravel. Some other pets that you can consider purchasing are:

For some of these species you will need to provide an area above the water where they can rest from time to time. When it comes to aquatic reptile terrariums for terrapins this is especially important. A fully semiaquatic terrarium is a more challenging affair, especially when it comes to keeping it clean. You tend to find that the planted land areas seep into the water that you are trying to keep clean. The aquariums can be divided by a glass panel, or just have a separate large dish for the water feature. A sloping glass divider can provide the most beautiful effect, and is worth the extra effort involved in keeping it clean.


Some of the animals that do well in a semiaquatic water terrarium include the ever popular green tree frog (Hyla cinerea) and various toads, such as American Leopard Frogs (Rana Pipiens Complex).

Funnily enough a lot of hobbyists advise against the use of sand in a desert terrarium! It is said there is a risk of intestinal impaction if the animals eat the sand. Although there is plenty of sand in the wild, the animals also have a more active lifestyle which helps process accidental ingestion. It seems the more slow-paced lifestyle of captive reptiles does pose risks if certain types of sand are used as substrate.


Desert animals enjoy a saxicolous, or rock-dwelling, lifestyle, and you should choose rocks oh which they can sit and bask under the heat lamp, and under which they can hide. When it comes to plants you have a number of options, including cacti, pachypodiums, sansevierias, gasterias, and haworthia. When choosing your cacti from the options available (as listed below) it is advisable to avoid those with particularly sharp spikes and hooks.

Types of Cacti
Acanthocalycium, Acanthocereus, Acharagma, Ariocarpus, Armatocereus, Arrojadoa, Arthrocereus, Astrophytum, Austrocactus, Austrocylindropuntia, Aztekium, Bergerocactus, Blossfeldia, Brachycereus, Brasilicereus, Brasiliopuntia, Browningia, Calymmanthium, Carnegiea, Cephalocereus, Cephalocleistocactus, Cereus, Cintia, Cipocereus, Cleistocactus, Cochemiea, Coleocephalocereus, Consolea, Copiapoa, Corryocactus, Coryphantha, Cumulopuntia, Cylindropuntia, Dendrocereus, Denmoza, Discocactus, Disocactus, Echinocactus, Echinocereus, Echinomastus, Echinopsis, Epiphyllum, Epithelantha, Eriosyce, Escobaria, Escontria, Espostoa, Espostoopsis, Eulychnia, Facheiroa, Ferocactus, Frailea, Geohintonia, Grusonia, Gymnocalycium, Haageocereus, Harrisia, Hatiora, Hylocereus, Isolatocereus, Jasminocereus, Lasiocereus, Leocereus, Lepismium, Leptocereus, Leuchtenbergia, Lophophora, Maihuenia, Maihueniopsis, Mammillaria, Mammilloydia, Matucana, Melocactus, Micranthocereus, Mila, Miqueliopuntia, Myrtillocactus, Neobuxbaumia, Neolloydia, Neoraimondia, Neowerdermannia, Obregonia, Opuntia, Oreocereus, Oroya, Ortegocactus, Pachycereus, Parodia, Pediocactus, Pelecyphora, Peniocereus, Pereskia, Pereskiopsis, Pilosocereus, Polaskia, Praecereus, Pseudoacanthocereus, Pseudorhipsalis, Pterocactus, Pygmaeocereus, Quiabentia, Rauhocereus, Rebutia, Rhipsalis, Samaipaticereus, Schlumbergera, Sclerocactus, Selenicereus, Stenocactus, Stenocereus, Stephanocereus, Stetsonia, Strombocactus, Tacinga, Tephrocactus, Thelocactus, Tunilla, Turbinicarpus, Uebelmannia, Weberbauerocereus, Weberocereus, xPacherocactus, Yavia, Yungasocereus

Clearly there are plenty of plants to choose from, and the above list is only for cacti, so make sure you set aside some time to do research. For example the plants in reptile terrariums will differ from those in amphibian terrariums.

Desert based animals tend to be very active, and you can see this in their physiology with their palmate feet and small limbs enabling them to dance across the sand. When it comes to keeping these pets at home this means that you should provide as large a terrarium as you can afford in order to give them space to thrive.

If you do decide to use sand as a substrate then you put it over some small pebbles of river rock. Next you would add some of the plants, and cage furniture (rocks, branches etc.) It is important that you secure the rocks in place with silicone aquarium sealant so that they cannot be disturbed and crush your pet. When it comes to the top of the vivarium, mesh is best as you do not want excessive humidity. The lights and heat mats should be positioned to provide variations in temperature. For a twenty gallon desert terrarium you will need a minimum of two fluorescent bulbs, and four could be preferable. A black light and full-spectrum tubes should be used.


The desert terrarium can be home to more than just lizards, for example, tarantulas, scorpions and tortoises are some of the other exotic pets that enjoy the environment. There are also amphibians out in the desert such as the great plains toad (Bufo cognatus) and the common green toad (B. d. debilis). There are even desert snakes such as the Kenyan sand boa (Eryx colubrinus loveridgei) or ground snake (Sonora semi-annulata). That said the most common pets that people select for this set up are reptiles such as the bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) or desert iguana (Dipsosaurus).

The first step is to place the river rock in the tank, then place the air-conditioning material or screening over the river rock, following this you can add the cage furniture such as rocks and branches. Top soil and plants can then be added. Some suitable plants include philodendrons, prayer plants, tropical ferns, spathyphyllum and pothos. The final stage is to add the lighting and any heat pads that will be used. The top of the terrarium can be a mesh screen or solid top, depending on the humidity you seek to achieve.

The key part of the tropical terrarium is to create a humid environment, and you can make use of a cage fogger to achieve this. Alternatively a combination of the right heating, strategic placing of water features, and regular misting can achieve the same effect. Some examples of pets that you might keep in a topical terrarium are golden mantella frogs (Mantella aurantiaca), and green and black arrow poison frogs (Dendrobates auratus).


Woodland Terrarium
The closest to the tropical terrarium is the woodland terrarium, which differs in that it has seasonal plants, rather than all year round tropical vegetation. Plants such as mosses, ferns, pipsissewa, and spotted wintergreen are typical choices for the environment. To recreate the seasonal environment you will need to adjust the terrarium’s lighting during the year, making it darker during the winter months. Some examples of specimens that thrive in the woodland habitat are: ground skinks (Scincella lateralis), five-lined skinks (Eumeces fasciatus) and the red-bellied snake (Storeria occipitomaculata).

Savanna Terrariums
Savanna terrariums are those that recreate the area that sits in between woodland and desert. This is very challenging since savannas go through arid summers, but have thriving vegetation emerging after the rainy season. To create this climate on a minature scale you should use savanna plants such as Copernicus palms and esparto grass. However, these are often very hard to buy, thus African plants such as Pachypodium lamerei and Pachypodium brevicaule are used. Haworthia plants also do well in a savanna environment, check out:

• angustifolia
• arachnoidea
• aristata
• bayeri
• blackburniae
• bolusii
• chlorocantha
• cooperi
• cymbiformis
• decipiens
• emelyae
• floribunda
• gracilis
• heidelbergensis
• herbacea
• lockwoodii
• maculata
• magnifica
• maraisii
• marumiana
• mirabilis
• monticola
• mucronata
• mutica
• nortieri
• outeniquensis
• parksiana
• pubescens
• pulchella
• pygmaea
• reticulata
• retusa
• rossouwii
• semiviva
• serrata
• springbokvlakensis
• transiens
• truncata
• turgida
• variegata
• vlokii
• witterbergensis
• zantneriana

Tortoises are the best known of the animals that have adapted to the savanna habitat. Others include the European greed toad (Bufo viridis), Bibron’s gecko (Pachydactylus bibroni), fat-tailed gecko (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus), and banded geckos (Coleonyx elegans).


Setting up a savanna terrarium requires a bit more work than the tropical and woodland varieties. The trick is to place a Styrofoam base on the floor of the terrarium. This base with have holes in it which are then filled with gravel and soil, and planted in. You can also make tiny holes in which to plant grass stems. When you add the cage furniture, such as rocks, it is best to glue them to the glass rather than the Styrofoam, as it is not a good bonding surface.

There are a number of different types of terrarium: rainforest, desert, aquatic, semi-aquatic, woodlands and savanna. Within each of these there are microhabitat variations. You will need to select the type based on your pet’s natural habitat, and tailor it to suit their microhabitat. For example, if you have a rainforest reptile you will select a rainforest terrarium, and then need to consider whether the animal is arboreal (tree-based) or would be better off with a terrarium that provides opportunities for burrowing. Before starting to set up your terrarium, you should thoroughly research your pet’s behavior in the wild.

The terrarium needs to be easy to access for cleaning, and these days there are many purpose built terrariums with doors on the front which can be securely locked. Aquariums can also be adapted, and even shower stalls are suitable for some larger species. Some owners set up special rooms or sheds for large species such as pythons (note: from time to time you will read about pet pythons killing their owners so if you have a snake over ten feet then make sure that the room/terrarium is secure, and never handle it alone).

If you need a terrarium that is very long vertically you will find that these are more expensive than smaller more basic terrariums. You will also notice that terrariums with front-opening doors tend to be more expensive than aquariums. These facts have given rise to some owners adapting aquariums, and stacking multiple tanks. To do this you knock out the bottom glass of aquariums, add horizontal corner braces, and stack the aquariums. You should note that even with the horizontal corner braces these tanks have weakened structures and should be handled with care.

When you have a wild-caught pet, rather than captive-bred, it is a good idea to have vegetation or backing marking the boundaries of the terrarium to save them from running into the glass since wild-caught specimens can be fast, frightened, and unfamiliar with invisible walls! Reptile terrariums with wild-caught lizards are notorious for escapees.

You need to be just as adept as looking after terrarium plants as you do animals in order to have a high quality environment. Good choices of plant include orchids, bromeliads, philodendrons, and anthuriums. The key is to choose plants that do well in low light and high humidity environments. In addition to plants, branches from your local woodland can be used, also rocks in which they can hide under, and bask on top of, are much appreciated by many reptiles. The key in all these choices is to match the animal’s natural habitat as closely as possible.

The substrate (flooring) of your terrarium will vary depending on the species, and there are many options: dead leaves, newspaper, cedar shavings, river rock, paper towels, pine mulch, cypress, aspen etc. Not all these options are suitable for all animals, so again it is important to know the characteristics of your pet’s natural habitat.


A terrarium must provide a range of different temperatures since amphibians and reptiles use external sources to vary their temperatures. This process is known as thermoregulation, with some species cooling themselves by moving from warm objects (thigmothermic) and others capturing heat from the sun (heliothermic). Heat mats, spot lights and flood lights can be used to meet your pet’s needs. You should take the temperature in various parts of your terrarium to ensure that it has the variety that is needed by your pet. The hottest point should be around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but check the exact needs of the animal you are keeping. As well as a heat-producing light, full-spectrum fluorescent lighting is required to create a healthy environment.

Finally, remember to keep the terrarium clean. A lot of reptiles tend to defecate in their water so this should be changed regularly.

Reptile terrariums

Desert Terrarium
Starting with the desert terrarium there are a number of snakes that come to mind, from the ground snake (Sonora semi-annulata) to the more exotic Kenyan sand boa (Eryx colubrinus loveridgei). Most desert snakes are burrowing and nocturnal so you may not see much of them. Their feeding habits vary from invertebrates to rodents, with some even choosing to dine on scorpions (another excellent choice for desert terrariums, but not with snakes!) You should take care not to select snakes that grow too large, as desert terrariums tend to be of a small scale. Something like a bull snake is not a good choice as it can outgrow its home. Other more suitable choices include: saddled leaf-nosed snake (Phyllorhynchus browni), hog-nosed snake (Heterodon nasicus), banded sand snake (Chilomeniscus cinctus), western shovel-nosed snake (Chionactis occipitalis), spotted leaf-nosed snake (Phyllorhynchus decurtatus), or spotted python (Antaresia maculosa).

[View with PicLens]

For some owner of reptile terrariums lizards are the preferred pet, and most specimens with thrive is a desert set up. The leopard gecko and bearded dragon are two of the firm favorites, but there are many other possibilities, including: side-blotched lizard (Uta), collard lizard (Crotaphytus), great plains skink (Eumeces obsoletus), Namibian sand gecko (Chrondrodactylus), web-footed sand gecko (Palmatogecko), desert iguana (Dipsosaurus), granite spiny lizard (Sceloporus orcutti), prairie lizard (Sceloporus undulatus), painted rock agama (Laudakia stellio), spiny-talied agamids (Uromastyx), and chuckwallas (Sauromalus obesus). And that is just to name a few of the options!

Savanna Terrarium
A savanna terrarium recreates the areas between woodland and desert. A savanna’s plant and animal life are shaped by it weather, which is one of modest rainfall for most of the year, interspersed with downpours that feed the vegetation in a massive burst. Your substrate and plants will be quite different from the desert set up, as will the animals. Tortoises are just one examples of the reptiles that live in the savanna, but there need of extensive space means that they are not so suitable for the confines of a terrarium, particularly as they can grow to significant sizes. If you do decide that a tortoise is for you, then a suitable choice would be the central Asian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldi) as the adult grows to a maximum of just eight inches.


Besides tortoises there are a number of lizard and snakes that you can consider. Lizards include Bibron’s, Moorish, nanded, fat-tailed, and Ocelot geckos. Eastern fence lizards (Sceloporus undulatus) are native to US woodlands, and can make nice small pets. Savanna snakes include the desert kingsnake, red milksnake, and Baird’s rat snake.

Heating a Reptile Terrarium

Aquatic Terrariums
Outside of turtles and alligators there are not so many reptiles that appreciate an aquatic or semi-aquatic environment. One that does is the tentacled snake (Erpeton tentaculatum). This is a fascinating animal that can barely move above ground. It is mildly venomous, and has paired tentacle structures.

Outdoor Terrariums
Outdoor terrariums, like the aquatic terrarium, is well-liked by turtles as long as some water area is included. One of the most common options is the ornate box turtle, but the desert box and yellow-margined box turtles are also readily available. The yellow-margined box turtle is usually imported from China, but it is also native to other parts of Asia.

Finally, don’t forget that different reptile terrariums support different types of plants, and you should take some time to select the right terrarium plants during the set up.