You will probably want to start with a nymph (baby stick insect) given the short life cycle of these pets. A nymph that has been through a few molts is the best option as younger nymphs can be very challenging to see through to adulthood. If your nymph has a few limbs missing it is nothing to worry about as these can regenerate, although that said if you have a choice then choose a specimen with the full compliment of limbs.

When you pick up your insect make sure you have a suitable box to transport them in, and keep them out of sunlight on the journey home. It is possible to purchase a stick inset via the mail, and if you select this option then ensure that the sender has had experience of insect postal delivery. The sender will need to provide enough food for the transportation and also mark the package clearly.

Just remember that wherever you buy you insect you need to make sure that you have the necessary food and environment for the species that you select.

You can find plenty of useful articles at: http://www.tropicalpets.com/category/insects/stick-insects/

This article takes you through some of the points to consider before purchasing a parrot, but it is only an overview, and you really should do thorough research on specific species and their requirements before taking the plunge and buying a parrot.

This article will concentrate on some of the characteristics of parrots that make them a challenging pet, and make clear the responsibilities you will face as an owner. The aim in not to put you off making a purchase, but to make sure that after the purchase you have a happy experience. Characteristics differ between species, and once you understand the implication of each characteristic it will help you select a parrot that you can take good care of.

We will look at:

• Longevity
• Size
• Intelligence
• Mimic skills
• Noise
• Cost
• Cleaning requirements
• Suitability of your location
• Weaning
• Legal requirements
• Feeding

Disclaimer: my favorite is the cute little Meyers Parrot, and I am totally biased when I say you really should check this breed out when you are choosing your new pet!

Longevity
Some parrots live to be as old as 100 with larger species tending to live longer than smaller ones. Thus you need to either select a species that matches your lifestyle, or if your heart is set on a large parrot you need to make arrangements for its care in the event that you die. This is no easy task as older parrots as pets can develop behavioral issues when they are switched to a new owner, especially if they were not trained properly. It is your responsibility to raise your pet in a way that maximizes the chances of a smooth transition. Lifespans of 60 common species are indicated below:

Size
The smallest parrot is the South Pacific Pygmy Parrot which measures just three and a half inches, the largest is the Hyacinth Macaw which measures just under 40 inches, and with over 370 species there are parrots of all different sizes in between.

Obviously a large parrot requires a larger cage, and the process of choosing the appropriate cage is described here, but in summary it is best to buy the biggest cage that your budget allows. At a minimum the diameter at the most narrow point of any cage must be twice the parrot’s wing span, and the cage height should be at least double the height of the bird.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking that a smaller bird requires less attention or care, as this simply isn’t the case. Whilst smaller birds tend to live for shorter periods, they require all your love and attention during their lifespan and are just as intelligent as larger birds.

So the size of your parrot is a factor that you need consider in relation to the cost of the cage, and lifespan.

The height of 60 common species is presented below.

Intelligence
All parrots are intelligent and this means that you will need to provide enough distractions to keep them occupied. This means spending time with your pet, especially if you are keeping a single bird, after all these are naturally sociable animals that would live and travel with a flock in the wild. Some species of parrot are said to have the equivalent intelligence of a human toddler, and you know how much attention they need!

In addition to spending time with them you will need to provide the right environment: a cage or aviary of an adequate size, opportunities to fly outside the cage, and toys to play with. These toys will need to be rotated regularly or your pet will soon become bored.

Photo: A selection of parrot toys

If the needs of this intelligent bird are not met it leads to behavioral problems, and physical manifestation such as feather-plucking. If you let your parrot get to this reduced mental state it is very challenging to nurture them once more into a happy bird.

One contentious issue is that parrots have a small cerebral cortex yet this is the area of the brain that it is established that humans use to think, however, it is contended that birds use a different part of their brain for intelligence – the so-called medio-rostral neostriatum. Whatever the case may be you will note that parrot are indeed intelligent. This intelligence does not always translate into excellent mimicry as many other factors come in to play as you will read in the following section.

Mimic Skills
Parrots talking are entertaining and delightful, but never buy a parrot because you want a talking bird since even the most naturally talented mimics sometimes don’t say a word. Whilst you can select a species such as the African Grey (which are the best mimics), it is still down to the individual bird as to the level of mimicry achieved. Other species with good talking ability are the Eclectus parrot and the budgerigar.

Below is the ranking of the talking ability of 60 species, but remember that this is indicative only and each parrot is an individual.

Noise

Whilst parrots talking is entertaining they also make all sorts of other noise, and you need to make sure that not only you can put up the noise levels, but also your neighbors. A squawking parrot is a healthy parrot so this is not a trait that you can train away, it is one that you must be happy with if you are going to buy a parrot. In fact one of the reasons I am so keen on the Meyers parrot is that it is a relatively quiet parrot.

To give you an idea of what you can expect, I have chatted to breeders of cockatoos who build special aviaries at the end of large gardens because they felt like their ears were about to bleed during breeding season. Cockatoos have been recorded at just a few decibels below that of a jumbo jet, and you have to be a real parrot lover to put up with the piercing shriek of a conure.

The rule of thumb is that the bigger the parrot the noisier it is likely to be, but below is an outline of the likely noise levels for each of 60 species.

Cost

Once you investigate various options you will see that parrots vary greatly in price, and this is mainly due to variations in how easy it is to breed each species. This supply and demand factor is quite local, and thus there is a wide range of prices, but below is a very rough indication of what you might expect to pay for weaned parrots. If you buy from an existing owner you will get a much lower price, but may have to deal with behavioral issues resulting from poor training.

• Amazon Parrots, $300-$1300
• African Grey, $1000-$1500
• Budgies, $10-$20
• Cockatoos, $800-$6,200
• Cockatiels, $130-$150
• Conures, $250-$650
• Lovebirds, $70-$100
• Macaws, $550-$8,500

In addition to the bird set-up costs vary by species, with larger parrots require larger cages, which are more expensive. Also, some species are more susceptible to illnesses than others, and you need to check that you can afford the specialist vet fees that are an ongoing cost of parrot-keeping.

Cleaning requirements

Not only are parrots noisy and expensive, but they are also really messy! Feathers, faeces, food and water will all end up on the floor of your pet’s cage and it is your job to clean it regularly to avoid health risks. Changing the water on a regular basis is the most important thing to remember.

Photo: A parrot cage draw.

Suitability of your location

You need to consider your location before choosing a parrot, for example, if you are very close to your neighbors then buying a noisy cockatoo would not really be fair to them. If you do not have a vet nearby with the Certified Avian Specialist Status, then you might want to think again as to whether a pet parrot is really the right choice.

Weaning

Photo: Baby parrots.

It is highly advisable to purchase a parrot that has already been weaned as it takes a real expert to manage this period in a bird’s development. Weaning requires multiple daily feedings, daily weighing of the bird, preparation of foods at the right temperature and the conducting of training and socializing – any mistakes made in the early training phase will be very difficult to correct later.

Legal Requirements

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) does not permit trade in wild-caught species, and you should be sure that you are not breaking any laws. It is highly advisable to buy a captive-bred, rather than wild-born bird, not only for legal reasons, but also because a wild-born bird will be harder to keep as a pet, and is really only a good choice for the experience aviculturist.

Feeding

Photo: Parrot feeding.

A good diet sits at the heart of good parrot care, and you need to make sure you understand your parrot’s needs before you make your purchase. You need to stick to recommended foods (parrot mix, along with green vegetables and fruit etc.) and avoid foods that can prove fatal (alcohol, avocado, chocolate, coffee, raw potato, salt, and tea).

Conclusion

Now you understand which factors are most important for your situation you can chose a parrot that meets your needs. You will choose from one of the following groupings: Budgies, Cockatiels, Cockatoos, Conures, Macaws, Parakeets, Parrotlets, Parrots, and Lovebirds.

Wing clipping simply means trimming a bird’s main flight feathers, the so called primaries, so that it is no longer able to fly as ably. This practice is no more painful than a haircut when carried out efficiently.

So why would you want to interfere with your parrot’s stunning plumage? The most obvious reason is to stop it flying away in escape. Given that escaped parrots rarely fare well taking the precaution of clipping your pet’s wings can be sensible. Even if escape is not a risk, parrots can be easily startled at times, and clipped wings prevent them flying into windows. It also allows you to handle your parrot more easily and stop it flying away from you when it is time to put them back in their cages.

Another reason for clipping wings is to stop aggressive behavior from the male during breeding. The males can get over excited during the mating season and charge down the females. The Moluccan Cockatoo below has its outermost flight feathers clipped.

If you are not experienced it is best to have your vet undertake the clipping by cutting the long primary feathers on one side of your bird. This need not look unattractive if you leave in place outer feathers that cover the clipped area. The basic process is to cut up to the first ten feathers at the end of one wing, with less feathers needing to be cut for heavier birds. The primaries are covered by other body feathers, and extend beyond these, thus by clipping up to the point where the covering feathers reach you will not have an unsightly bird.

Some warnings in relation to wing clipping:

• Feathers grow back so don’t forget to keep an eye on that or your bird could easily escape. Some species such as Senegal Parrots can be powerful fliers even with clipped wings so be careful if taking your bird outside
• Parrots have very delicate bones so they must not be crushed when held during the clipping process
• Blood feathers are new growing feathers that have a blood supply, and must not be cut. If they are accidentally cut then they should be immediately plucked in a swift painless motion

An African Grey with its wings clipped:

A Meyer’s Parrot with clipped wings:

• Poicephalus senegalus senegalus: yellow belly, native to southern Mauritania, southern Mali to Guinea and Lobos Island
• Poicephalus senegalus mesotypus: orange belly, native to eastern and northeastern Nigeria and Cameroon and southwest Chad
• Poicephalus senegalus versteri: dark orage/red belly, native to the Ivory Coast, Eastern Ghana, western Nigeria

Appearance
Growing to 10 inches this bird typically has a lifespan of 30 years, but has been known to live up to 50. The bright plumage of the Senegal makes it a popular choice. A silver head extends down to a green breast, and orange/yellow body. The colors on the chest are often described as a vest as they are distinguished quite clearly from the green body. If you have been around parrots for a while you will notice that Senegal Parrots have slightly larger heads than most parrot species.

Temperament
The Senegal can be a little wary of visitors, especially as they age, but they are quieter than most parrots, and captive-bred Senegal parrots make good pets. It is important to expose your Senegal to a range of experiences when they are young to ward of the tendency to become wary that some adult specimens exhibit. Some important considerations if you are considering purchasing this bird are:

• These birds are reasonable mimics, but tend to stick to whistling and chirping rather than being prime examples of parrots talking
• Senegals often form a strong bond with just one family member, but it is not uncommon for them to rotate their favorite
• Be wary of cheap Senegal parts imported from Africa – although they may make great specimens to look at they rarely make good pets
• Senegal parrots will need at least one hour of exercise per day and 10 hours of good sleep

Housing
This is a species well suited to both cages and aviaries, however, a cage of at least four feet is recommended, along with regular exercise outside the cage. As with other parrots horizontal bars are recommended so that your parrot can enjoy climbing.

Diet
For some reason, more than other parrots, the Senegal loves peanuts (of course these must not be salted as that could be deadly). Along with this treat they are fed on parrot mix, fruit and greens.

Senegal Parrot Breeders
The Senegal Parrot requires scientific sexing, and once you identify a pair you will often find that the like to nest outdoors. Breeding should not commence until the birds are at last three years old, and you will find that some do not breed until they are seven years old. An example of a suitable nestbox:

Senegal parrot breeders report that the species tend to breed from November to March and two or three eggs per clutch is typical. You should provide a deep nest box for this species of at least 18 inches. A Senegal Parrot’s egg:

If all goes according to plan then the female will lay a clutch of eggs and incubate them for around 28 days. He newly born chicks will open their eyes after around three weeks and fly the nest after nine weeks. At three months old the chicks will be independent of their parents.

A young Senegal:

Chose your Species Carefully
The ability of parrots talking varies between species, and even within the same species some birds simply turn out to be better mimics than others. It is generally accepted that the African Grey Parrot is the most talented mimic, however, it is a budgerigar named Puck that is listed in the Guinness World Records as having the largest vocabulary of any bird, at 1,728 words. You should carefully research parrot species if talking is an important criteria as you cannot make the assumption that all parrots are talented communicators, the Meyers parrot for example is a lovable bird, but quite quiet. The blue fronted Amazon parrot is another talented mimic. The African Grey:

Training Tips
Once you have selected a suitable pet some of these tips have success in getting parrots taking:

• Parrots tend to respond better to the voices of women and children than those of men
• A hand-raised parrot will start talking earlier than one reared by its parents, but in both cases patience is important. As a benchmark consider that an Africa Grey will typically start talking only at around six months
• Ensure the room is quiet when you conduct the training
• Allocate time to run through your training session, but rather than one long session, it is better to have multiple shorter sessions so that your pet does not become tired. A five minute session where words are spoken clearly at a steady pace works well
• Parrots will mimic one another more readily than humans when they are kept together

Check out these talented parrots talking…

Why Can Parrots Talk?
Parrots have the ability to learn how to call, which is quite different from other birds and animals which are genetically predisposed to have a specific call that is uniform across the species (with differences between the male and female the only typical variation). Parrots talking ability is called imitative vocal learning and there are a number of theories as to why parrots have this skill including: development of unique dialects so that strangers and member of their own flock alike can be identified, and as a means of demonstrating their intelligence to potential mates. When parrots are held in captivity this imitative vocal learning is directed to mimicking the human members of its social group, or if it is with other birds these too will be mimicked.

Can Parrots Understand what they Are Saying?
It was always thought that birds were simply just mimics until a 30-year study of an African Grey Parrot was undertaken by animal psychologist Irene Pepperberg. The study demonstrated that the parrot, Alex, had basic reasoning skills and could use words creatively. Pepperberg put forward the view that Alex has the intellectual level of a five year old human and in July 2005, she reported that Alex understood the concept of zero. However, whilst Alex’s abilities sound impressive some scientists reject the experiments as flawed and the results as false. Perhaps the only way for you to get a satisfactory answer to this question is to get your own pet parrot and chat away!

Some of the main threats to parrot health that you need to be aware of as a parrot owner are:

• Avian Chlamydia (Chlamydia psittaci)
• Avian Polyomavirus
• Avian Salmonella
• Avian Tuberculosis (Mycobacterium avium)
• Escherichia coli
• Gout
• Pacheco’s Disease (PVD)
• Papilloma
• Proventricular Dilation Disease (PDD)
• Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

Avian Chlamydia (Chlamydia psittaci)
This condition is also known as Psittacosis, Parrot Fever or chlamydiosis. Signs of this illness differ between young and older birds. Young birds may have symptoms that include a drop in body temperature, weight loss, conjunctivitis, and unusual droppings ranging from yellow to gray diarrhea. Older birds exhibit a greener diarreah, tremors and lethargy, along with other signs such as weight loss and conjunctivitis. The disease is treatable by the antibiotic tetracycline. This bacterial infection is also transmittable to humans, who suffer pneumonia-like symptoms and risk death if it remains untreated.

Avian Polyomavirus
This virus commonly known as Budgerigar Fledgling Disease is a real risk to pet parrots as it spreads quite easily, particularly amongst the young. You will see weigh loss, swollen abdomens, regurgitated food, poor plumage, tremors and other symptoms in birds suffering this condition. On the other hand some die without exhibiting symptoms. The disease can’t be treated, although a vaccine is available. Once your pet has a fully developed immune system it is unlikely to contract Avian Polyomavirus.

Avian Salmonella
This bacteria can be transmitted via the air, and has lethargy, anorexia, and diarrhea as the most common symptoms. However, symptoms vary from species to species, for example, the African Grey produces excessive mucus, flaky skin and even arthritis. The best way to avoid your pet coming down with this nasty bacteria is to maintain the high standards of hygiene that are critical to parrot health.

Avian Tuberculosis (Mycobacterium avium)
If your parrot shows signs of weight loss without signs of appetite loss then you should have a vet examine them. These symptoms along with diarrhea, and respiratory problems are signs of Avian Tuberculosis. Unfortunately the condition is not treatable, thus prevention is key. The best prevention is to avoid large zoo-like collections of birds as it is under these conditions that it is most likely to spread.

Escherichia coli
The bacterial infection E. coli is best prevented by keeping feces out of drinking water. The best prevention to have your parrot’s water dish above the droppings area at all times to ensure that it doe not become polluted. E.coli is also naturally present in human saliva so you should not transfer your saliva via kisses or second hand food. The infection is treatable if recognized in good time, and your vet will prescribe Vetisulid.

Gout
You may come across this kidney illness in baby parrots. Signs to look out for are dehydration and food regurgitation. The causes of gout are not known, but a balanced diet rich in calcium is suggested by some as a means of prevention.

Pacheco’s Disease (PVD)
This is a particularly nasty disease that is usually fatal so owners should watch out for symptoms that include body tremors across the neck, wings and legs, ruffled plumage, conjunctivitis, diarrhea, tiredness and sinusitis. Once the disease hits it is a quick killer.

It is very difficult to save the first bird to contract PVD since it is usually too late to initiate effective treatment after the diagnosis, however, if you have more than one bird your vet will advise on cleaning, segregation and monitoring procedures that should prevent further deaths.

Papilloma
This is a wart like growth that is located in the parrot’s vent, the area that all combined waste comes from, or in its mouth or throat. Laser treatment can be used to remove the growth, and this should be undertaken in cases where the growth blocks bowel movements or breathing.

Proventricular Dilation Disease (PDD)
One of the most common parrot health threats PDD sees your pet lose weight, regurgitate food, excrete food that is not fully digested, have tremors and seizures, and exhibit signs of lethargy and depression. It is commonly known as Macaw Wasting Disease, but is in fact no restricted to Macaws. Unfortunately this disease is very difficult to diagnose in a living bird and is untreatable, furthermore the causes of the virus are uncertain. With such scant information, the only preventative measures are quarantine of new birds and implementation of good hygiene practices.

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)
As the name suggests this disease is common to psittacine species, and species that ae particularly susceptible include: African greys, cockatoos, eclectus parots, lovebrids, macaws and ringneck parakeets. Some of the most recognizable symptoms are: feather loss, growth of unusual feathers, abnormal beak growth and weight loss. As there is currently no known treatment it is important to maximize prevention by separating infected birds to avoid transmission via contact.

Other Illnesses
Below is a close-up o pathogenic influenza A virus subtype H5N1 virus, which is an emerging avian influenza virus. However, this article has not dealt with so called bird flu in great detail as the risk of contracting avian flu is not very high for captive birds. However, if your pet interacts with wild birds, or was caught in the wild then you should certainly research this illness further.

The important health issue of wing clipping is dealt with in a separate article.

Despite this frightening list of possible afflictions if you follow good parrot care steps, particularly around hygiene, you should find that parrot health is a manageable issue. It is just as likely that your parrot will outlive you, and you will need to prepare for their ongoing care. Finally, if you observe any signs of ill health in your parrot take them to the vet at the earliest opportunity.

Appearance
Because of its small stature, which sees it grow to around nine inches, this bird is often mistaken for a parakeet. Originally from Africa, it has a brown head and almost black wings. These dark features serve as an excellent contrast to a chest and back with shade of blue and green, along with various yellow markings.

The six subspecies each have slightly different marking:

• Poicephalus meyeri meyeri – yellow on the head, turquoise/blue belly
• Poicephalus meyeri saturatus – yellow on the head, green belly
• Poicephalus meyeri matschiei – yellow on the head, bright blue belly
• Poicephalus meyeri reichenowi – dark head, turquoise belly
• Poicephalus meyeri damarensis – dark head, turquoise belly
• Poicephalus meyeri trasvaalensis – yellow on the head, greenish belly

Captive-bred stock have been interbred for years without reference to the subspecies so the distinctions noted above are apparent only in wild birds. Even in the wild the subspecies are difficult to distinguish because of the subtle difference in the blues and greens that mark this bird.

Behavior
The Meyers Parrot is a peaceful bird that does not make as much noise as other parrots, at the same time whilst it can learn a few words it is not one of the best mimics. Owners often remark how loving this species is, and that it is a good pet bird if you have children. Parrot care for the Meyers does not have many particular requirements, but they do enjoy human company so should be well attended to.

Habitat
Its natural habitat is the woodlands, grasslands and forests of sub-Saharan Africa. The location of the six sub species of Meyers is:

• Poicephalus meyeri meyeri – South Chad to West Ethiopia
• Poicephalus meyeri saturatus – Uganda and West Kenya to West Tanzania
• Poicephalus meyeri matschiei – Central Tanzania, South East Congo, Zambia and North Malawi
• Poicephalus meyeri reichenowi – Central Angola to South Congo
• Poicephalus meyeri damarensis – Northern Namibia, South Angola and North Western Botswana
• Poicephalus meyeri transvaalensis – Botswana, Zimbabwe and Northern South Africa

The range of the Meyers is shown below.

Your Meyers will want a cage that it can practice some flying in so height and width of around 20 inches would be suitable. As with most parrots horizontal bars for climbing, and a variety of perches to avoid repetitive stress are recommended.

Diet
Parrot mix, fruit and greens are a suitable diet, with preferred food including apples, bananas, carrots, and cucumber. In the wild the Meyers loves nothing more than the seeds of leguminous African trees.

A typical small, lovable Meyers:

• Taking care of young birds
• Handling your bird
• Housing requirements
• Feeding
• Breeding

Taking care of young birds
A dark box of a similar size to a nestbox is the best way to transport your pet bird home. A small cosy box will prevent your new pet injuring itself by attempting to fly, and the dark will mitigate the stress the bird would suffer if it could see what was going on during the move. Birds are very sensitive to potential threats and parrots are best transported in darkness so that they don’t become alarmed.

Once you arrive home you should introduce your parrot to its new aviary or cage, but this should be separate from other birds for a couple of weeks to avoid the transmission of any diseases your new pet may have.

If you plan to introduce your new pet to a shared aviary after the isolation period you should monitor it for the first few days to check that the established birds are not overly aggressive to the newcomer. Of all birds parrots are particularly suspicious of other pets (not just birds) so they should first be placed close by a shared aviary for a number of days before the introduction.

Handling your bird
The best way to tame your new pet is via hand feeding. Each day you should speak in a gentle voice and feed its favorite greens. The next step is to allow your parrot out of its cage. Over time your parrot will become very tame, and a delightful companion.

Housing requirements
Housing needs vary from species to species, but most parrots fare well in aviaries or cages. Smaller species prefer a wide cage that they can fly across, whilst a taller cage is recommended for large birds; in both cases as large a cage as you can afford is recommended to allow your parrot to thrive. Horizontal bars that allow the parrot to climb are a good option, and of course the spacing between the bars will vary for each animal, and should be narrower for the smaller species of parrot. An important part of parrot care is to watch out for dangerous latches or protrusions that could injure your parrot’s plumage.

Stainless steel or wrought iron cages are common choices for parrot housing. Any zinc, or paint containing zinc, is deadly to birds so avoid this.

Cages should contain a variety of perches, which should be regularly rotated to avoid injury from repetitive stress.

By placing the cage against a wall your parrot will feel protected on one side, and this will reduce his stress level. A cylindrical cage in the center of the room would have the opposite effect.

Feeding
A good diet sits at the heart of good parrot care. Parrot mix, along with green vegetables and fruit is a common diet for most species of parrot. Do be careful when selecting parrot mix as some contain the potentially dangerous additives such as menadione.

As with all birds parrots have a fast metabolism and will eat voraciously. They will at almost anything that is put in front of them and will naturally gravitate to foods that contain nutrients they are lacking. However, there are some foods that are harmful to your parrot and should not be given under any circumstance: alcohol, avocado, chocolate, coffee, raw potato, salt, and tea.

If your parrots are reluctant to eat a certain food one tip is to heat it up first to bring it to the tropical temperature that it would be in the wild – we are not talking piping hot here, just jungle warmth.

When your parrot is moulting you need to be especially vigilant on nutrients to support the regrowth of a healthy plumage, and at this time adding animal proteins such as chicken and fish can be a good idea.

Breeding
Breeding is a very specialized topic, and the approach varies depending on the species of parrot that you are dealing with. In this section we just discuss some of the general aspects of parrot breeding.

The most difficult part of parrot breeding used to be sexing as it is very difficult to tell a male and female apart, but since the 1980s scientific sexing, or laparotomy sexing, has solved the problem. The sexing works by anaesthetizing the parrot and using an endoscope to directly examine their sexual organs.

During breeding season you place parrots of the opposite sex in an aviary or cage with specialized equipment. One issue you will need to consider is wing clipping as this can prevent over anxious males charging females during the breeding season.

The breeding diet should contain plenty cuttlefish bone because of its calcium-rich properties.

You will need to select a nestbox and nesting material that are suitable for your species of parrot. Parrots don’t tend to build large nests. Your parrot will spend more time in the nestbox after laying a clutch of eggs, and you must be careful not to disturb your birds at this time or they may abandon the clutch. They will sit during the incubation period and in most cases it is best to let nature run its course until hatching.

As far as possible you want to recreate the breeding conditions in the wild. These Eclectus parrots are enjoying the mating rituals in their natural habitat:

Once aspect of parrot care not covered in this article is parrot health, so we recommend reading the article on parrot well-being that we have prepared.

Appearance
The bird’s name derives from the blue markings on its face. The head can have a wide range of individual markings, and is typically a yellow coloration extending into the green body. You will note that the bird’s feathers become a darker green at the edges. The real distinguishing sign of a blue fronted Amazon parrot is in fact the red markings on the shoulder as it is very rare that these are absent. Feet are dark in color.

Habitat
The natural habitat of these birds is Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay.

Handling & Training
This is a really friendly bird, but just like their owners they can get moody in older age. Blue fronted Amazon parrots require a great deal of attention. By sending a lot of time with your pet you will find that it bonds strongly with you and entertains with singing and talking. Be warned that this is one pet that will become aggressive and noisy without enough attention.

Housing
You will need a strong aviary for these birds as they tend to attack the woodwork with their powerful beaks. Also, with this parrot growing up to 15 inches housing arrangements must accommodate the need for a daily stretch of its wings. If you do keep your pet in a cage then an additional flight cage is a requirement. The cage itself should be at least 36 inches high and 30 inches wide. The bars should not be further than an inch apart. One tip is to rotate perches from time to time to avoid the repetitive stress of a single perch shape. As with all cages a metal grid above the substrate and water above the perch level are good measures to avoid health issues relating to waste contamination.

Blue fronted have a habit of being pretty noisy at dawn and dusk so you may want to keep them confined at those times. Even with that precaution you must consider whether you and your neighbors can live with the noise levels of such a bird.

It is possible to keep these birds inside at room temperature, but the cage must be well off the floor away from potential drafts as this is a bird that does not appreciate changes in temperature.

Keep the housing clean at all times by placing water multiple times per day, regular cage cleaning, and substrate replacement at least weekly.

Diet
Parrot mix along with greens and fruit are a good diet for the blue fronted Amazon parrot. The parrot mix makes up around 65% of the diet and preferred fruits and vegetables are potatoes, carrots, broccoli, spinach, bananas, papayas, grapes and mangoes. Always make sure that your parrot has access to clean water as this species often enjoy bathing their food in water prior to eating. Be careful not to overfeed your bird as weight loss can be an issue.

Breeding
You will need scientific sexing to identify a breeding pair and they should be well settled into their environment. Once that is achieved you need to accommodate their breeding period (early summer in the Northern hemisphere). Typically this breed produces one round of three to four chicks. Incubation is 28 days a fledgling 65 days later. Once born the young blue front Amazon parrots will have duller color than adults and brown irises.

A young blue fronted Amazon parrot:

Comparison
There are many types of parrot to chose from so before you rush to purchase a blue fronted it is well worth researching other species such as Senegal parrots or the Meyers Parrot. In reading about these two other birds you will get a sense of the diversity in parrot choice.

http://www.tropicalpets.com/birds/parrot-care/

Tropical Marine Substrates
Silver sand is made up of quartz particles without the iron oxides coating which give sands a yellow or brown coloring. Whilst some say that it is excellent for propagating aquatic plants from seeds, its best feature its attractive look.

Coral sand is a more expensive alternative made up from the limestone skeletal material of marine organisms. Whist corals are marine organisms from the class Anthozoa, coral sand includes the skeletal remains of other organisms too, such as algae crustaceans and mollusks.

Tropical Freshwater Substrates
Pea gravel and silver sand are two of the most popular choices.

Peat is a substrate worth considering in some detail as whilst it is a great choice for supporting the growth of plant life its disadvantages must be mitigated. Aquarium peat will soften the water and reduce its pH levels. Furthermore, it releases nitrates and CO2 into the water which support healthy fish. However, you must select plants that thrive in low opH conditions, and only experience will teach you the right levels of peat to select.

Coldwater Freshwater Substrates
Pea gravel is the small, rounded smooth stones that are often used in walkways or driveways, and makes a suitable substrate for your coldwater tank. Alternatively, the combustible black or brownish-black sedimentary rock we know as coal is a simple and stylish substrate choice. A coal-gravel mix is a further alternative.

Coldwater Marine Substrates
You don’t want anything too tidy or ornate if you are going to have clawed animals such as crabs since they will just dig the whole thing up. Beach shingle and rocks make a create substrate – you will find everything you need at the same place you collect your specimens.